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Oxheart: herdefinieer die idee van lekker eet

Oxheart: herdefinieer die idee van lekker eet


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Herdefinieer die idee van lekker eet

Oxheart het twee tafels met 30 sitplekke sonder 'n wagarea.

Met die nuutste voedseltoneel van Houston, is dit geen verrassing dat een van die nuutste restaurante in die omgewing 'n vars gevoel en moderne geregte het nie. Terwyl baie restaurante in Houston is dalk bekommerd oor die gemak van die beskermheer, Ossehart is minder bekommerd oor die werklike eetplek, en meer oor die vervolmaak van die eetervaring. Omdat die kookkuns -ervaring van sjef Kevin Yu geleer is uit die tyd wat hy in Europa deurgebring het, inspireer helder kleure en unieke vorms die meeste van Oxheart se geregte esteties.

Al is die enigste opsie 'n proe -spyskaart van vier of sewe gange word die geregte van Oxheart eenvoudig gemaak met plaaslik gegroeide en vars bestanddele. Uit met tradisioneel gesofistikeerde kosse soos truffels, duiwelsool en lam, en met eksotiese kosse soos veldblomme, plante en bisarre visspesies. Een kursus wat die New York Times was mal daaroor ongeveer was 'n gesnyde rou chard slaai met boerenkoolblare, ingelegde chard en 'n lepel tert bokmelk wei, alles bedek met 'n kruisement basiliekruid. Alhoewel sommige van hierdie bestanddele nie heeltemal eksoties lyk nie, maak die eenvoud van Yu se kookkuns en die kuns van die gereg hierdie restaurant 'n unieke maaltyd.

Die atmosfeer van Oxheart help ook om die tradisionele lekker eetervaring te herdefinieer. Die restaurant het slegs twee tafels met 30 sitplekke sonder 'n wagarea. Die gespuitverfde mure en stapel vinylplate rondom die restaurant bied 'n warm en huislike gevoel aan 'n reeds onkonvensionele manier om te eet. Die intieme omgewing van Oxheart sowel as die heerlike eksotiese geregte maak dit egter 'n werklik revolusionêre eetervaring vir alle besoekers.


Lekker eet in Sydney: op soek na 'n luukse restaurant?

As een van die mees multi-kulturele stede ter wêreld, bied Sydney, Australië, 'n wye verskeidenheid eetplekke wat selfs die mees uiteenlopende smake kan akkommodeer. Aangename atmosfeer, uitstekende diens en heerlike happies van perfeksie kan op elke blok gevind word en verteenwoordig goeie kookkuns van oor die hele wêreld.

Tintel u smaakknoppies in afwagting van 'n smaak van Thai? Yok Yor roep jou naam. Yok Yor, wat voortdurend aangewys is as een van die beste restaurante in Sydney, lewer die goedere telkens weer, en herdefinieer speserye en gee tradisionele Thaise kos 'n voorsprong. Met 'n romantiese atmosfeer en bedagsame bedieningspersoneel, wat meer kan u vra? Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Gebraaide Barramundi.

As u lus is vir Grieks, kan u nie verkeerd gaan met Nostos nie. Die spyskaart bied 'n groot verskeidenheid tradisionele Griekse kos, en die kundige en vriendelike bedieningspersoneel sal verseker dat u tevrede vertrek. Nostos, bekend vir sy subtiele, vars smaak, staan ​​voortdurend bo -aan die lys van restaurantresensies. Kom Vrydag, Saterdag of Sondag in, en u kry die ekstra bonus vir lewendige musiek. Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Keftedes (Griekse gehaktballetjes in fetadip)

Tetsuya's bied die beste van twee wêrelde. Japanse geure word versterk met klassieke Franse kooktegnieke, onder leiding van sjef Tetsuya, wat bekend is vir sy innoverende benadering tot voedsel en die wye verskeidenheid van 'n voortdurend veranderende spyskaart. Hy gebruik vars, seisoenale kosse om onvergeetlike geregte te skep wat kliënte verbaas en laat terugkom vir meer. Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Confit van Tasmanian Ocean Forel.

Soettand? Moenie die geleentheid laat verbygaan om te geniet van die lekkerste lekkernye by La Renaissance Patisserie nie. La Renaissance Patisserie is al jare lank 'n gunsteling onder toeriste en inwoners van Sydney, en bied ruim porsies Franse kombuis en delikate gebak. Kyk na die spyskaart vir iets wat werklik dekadent is. U kan 'n verskeidenheid nageregte vir partytjies bestel en 'n hap van elke verskeidenheid kry. Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Swartwoudkoek.

'N Ander opvallende Franse restaurant is La Pelican. La Pelican is gehuisves in 'n klein sandsteenstruktuur en het 'n gesellige, ou wêreldgevoel. Groot groepe word in die uitnodigende binnehof aan die agterkant van die gebou gehuisves, en privaat kamers is beskikbaar vir klein partytjies. Die sjef pas graag geregte aan vir kliënte met spesiale dieetbeperkings, en versoeke van kliënte word altyd met 'n glimlag begroet. Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Lam.

Times on the Park is beslis die eerste plek om 'n lekker steak te eet. Die steaks is nie net sag en lekker nie, maar kliënte kan ook eet terwyl hulle uitkyk op die lieflike uitsig oor Hyde Park. Voeg die uitstekende wynkeuse en vriendelike personeel by, en Times on the Park is 'n ernstige aanspraakmaker op die beste restaurant in Sydney. Aanbevole handtekeninggereg: Chateaubriand Wagyu Aged Steak.

In totaal handhaaf restaurante in Sydney 'n hoë standaard. Hou 'n oop gemoed en probeer al die kombuis wat Sydney bied-u smaakknoppies sal u bedank.


Thomas Keller se gebraaide hoender: die swaar gereg met 'n ligte aanraking

Net 'n paar bestanddele vir 'n wonderlike resep. Vandag praat ons Thomas KellerSe gebraaide hoender. Lees hoe u dit tuis kan voorberei.

Thomas Keller is die mees eerbiedige sjef in die Verenigde State en met goeie rede. Hy het 'n belangrike rol gespeel in die herdefiniëring van Amerikaanse lekkernye, opleiding van die beste sjefs ter wêreld en die onderrig van huiskokke regoor die wêreld om te streef na hoër standaarde in hul kombuise. Chef Keller se gebraaide hoenderresep staan ​​bekend as die uiteindelike manier om elke keer perfekte, bros gebraaide hoender te berei. Hier is hoe u dit moet doen.

Sjef Keller verstaan ​​dat u nie altyd 'n bestanddeel moet oorwerk om dit ten volle te benut nie. Soms is 'n ligte aanraking nodig, en dit is die geval met Thomas Keller se gebraaide hoenderresep.

Hoe om Thomas Keller se gebraaide hoender tuis voor te berei

Dit is duidelik dat die belangrikste ding is om 'n hoender van goeie gehalte te kies. Dit is altyd die beste om 'n slagter by u te koop, in teenstelling met die pluk van die pluimvee -toonbank by die supermark. Dit is ook raadsaam om 'n menslik-gekweekte en volhoubare gekweekte voël te kies, aangesien hoe hoër die lewenskwaliteit van die hoender is, hoe beter die kondisie en smaak van die vleis.

Voordat jy begin om jou hoender voor te berei, moet jy dit uit die yskas haal en laat kamertemperatuur bereik. As u 'n koue hoender in die oond sit, verlaag dit die algehele temperatuur en kook die hoender nie eweredig nie. Dit kook vinniger aan die buitekant as aan die binnekant.

Berei jou hoender voor

Sommige mense verkies om hul hoender te was voordat hulle dit kook, ander verkies om dit nie te doen nie. Daar is baie sterk menings hieroor. As u dit wel was, moet u dit daarna baie goed met papierhanddoeke droog. Oormaat water skep stoom, wat verhoed dat die vel bros word.

Keller verwyder eers die wensbeen, soos in die video gesien kan word, en geur dan die binnekant van die hoender met sout en peper. Draai die vlerke van die hoender na onder, onder die liggaam, dit ondersteun die voël in die oond en hou dit regop. Bind die hoender met 'n stuk slagdraad, hou die bene bymekaar en die vlerke styf teen die lyf.

Bestanddele

• Vrye hoender
• Kosher sout
• Swart peper
• takkies tiemie

Plaas die hoender in 'n braaipan en geur die hoender met sout en peper. Keller strooi die sout van 'n hoogte af, want dit sorg vir 'n lekker egalige bedekking van kosher sat. Peper bo -oor sal in die oond gebraai word en geur aan die vel gee. Voeg dan ongeveer 'n ¼ koppie gemaalde tiemieblare bo -oor.

Anders as baie ander resepte, word vet nie by die gebraaide hoender gevoeg nie, sodat dit in sy eie sappe kan kook. Die oond word voorverhit by 400-450F en die hoender word in die oond geplaas vir 1/2 tot 2 uur, afhangende van die grootte van die hoender. 'N Gemiddelde hoender behoort binne ongeveer 45 minute te kook, maar die manier om te kyk of 'n hoender gaar is, steek dit tussen die dy en die liggaam met 'n skerp mes, en as die sappe helder word, is die hoender gaar. Dit is altyd beter om versigtig te wees as dit by hoender kom, en 'n effens te gaar voël is beter as 'n te klein voël.

As die hoender gaar is, haal dit uit die oond. Plaas die hoender op 'n snyplank en laat dit vir 15 minute rus. Hou die pansappe om sous te maak, indien verkies. Dan kom die kerf. Keller verdeel die hoenderbors in twee, wat hom toelaat om die voël in twee helftes te bedien.

Thomas Keller het 'n groot kennis van voedsel en tegniek, en hy het resepte vir alle vlakke, van die top-sjefs van lekker eet tot die beginner-huiskok. As u Keller se eenvoudige, onfeilbare gebraaide hoenderresep en voorbereiding volg, verseker u dat u elke keer die beste resultate met u gebraaide hoender kry. Sodra u die basiese beginsels van Keller onder die knie het, kan u met u eie variasies begin eksperimenteer.


Geregte en bestanddele wat die Suid -Afrikaanse kookkuns definieer (en herdefinieer)

Toe dit tyd word om sy eie restaurant oop te maak, besluit Mabao dat hy wil hê dat sy spyskaart eksperimenteel en speels is, en bowenal wou hy nie net in die Europese kookkuns gegrond wees nie, maar ook op die tradisionele suide Afrikaanse geregte.

'Ek het nog altyd flankeer met die idee om die Suid -Afrikaanse kookkuns te herdefinieer,' verduidelik hy. 'In my restaurant het ons geëksperimenteer met die gebruik van samp in plaas van arborio -rys vir 'n risotto en om ons eie sorghum te fermenteer en daarvan 'n roomys te maak.

Een van sy eweknieë, Siyabulela Kobo, sjef by Restaurant Kobo Cuisine, deel 'n panache om plaaslike bestanddele met 'n draai te bedien. Sjef Kobo wou oorspronklik 'n meganiese ingenieur word, maar weens 'n gebrek aan geld om te studeer, het hy as kelner gewerk om geld te verdien. Subtiele geluide en gewaarwordinge uit die kombuis trek egter gou sy aandag: die geluid van 'n mes wat groente kap, die borrel olie -skyfies in die braaier, die vuur van 'n steak. Hy het as 'n sjef -leerling as vrywilliger aangebied, en sy loopbaan as sjef het begin. Voordat hy Kobo Cuisine oopgemaak het, het hy as sjef by die InterContinental Hotel gedien.

"Ek gebruik sprinkaanvryf om voëls te braai, mopani -wurms as 'n kors vir wildsvleis, as gemaak van aartappelvelle wat in oop houtvlamme gaargemaak word," sê hy. 'Die Suid -Afrikaanse kookkuns het 'n suiwer smaak. Ons gebruik nie baie speserye nie, en ons laat die oorspronklike geure van die bestanddeel opval. Ons geure kom van ons kookmetodes en ons gebruik baie hout, wat rokerige geure bring. ”

Sjef Kobo tel umvubo (mieliemeel, water en suurmelk), umqa (pampoen en mieliemaal), isigwamba (mieliemeel en spinasie), bobotie (Kaaps -Maleise kerrie), umngqusho (samp en boontjies), melktert en tshotlo (beesvleis) onder sy gunsteling Suid -Afrikaanse geregte.

Sjef Mabaso waarsku egter dat Suid -Afrikaanse kos erken moet word vir meer as sy uiteenlopende bestanddele, wat nie die hele verhaal vertel van hoe die kombuis van die land ontstaan ​​het nie.

'Ons moet nooit 'n kombuis definieer op grond van bestanddele nie,' het sjef Mabaso gesê. 'Daar is baie bestanddele wat ons glo uniek is vir ons, maar eintlik oral elders in die wêreld verbruik word. Wat ons kombuis definieer, is kultuur en geskiedenis. ” Hy merk egter op dat "daar spesiale skaars bestanddele is soos samp [gekookte mieliepitte] wat ons ons eie kan noem."


Revolusionêre eetgerei: 6 borde wat eetplekke herdefinieer

Elke sjef sal u vertel dat bordering 'n integrale deel van enige maaltyd is. Die bord dien as 'n uitbreiding van die kos, en dit kan 'n maaltyd maak of breek - veral dié wat in lekker restaurante regoor die wêreld bedien word. Sedert bord ontwerp is 'n groot probleem in die bedryf, het ons besluit om 'n blik op die eetgerei wat die eetkamer herdefinieer - hetsy deur 'n bestaande ontwerp te verbeter of 'n nuwe ontwerp te skep. Kyk na ons vondste en laat weet ons wat u daarvan dink in die kommentaar hieronder:

Heerlike kos is nie die enigste ding wat by die beste restaurant ter wêreld opgedis word nie. Die Roca -broers eer hul Katalaanse wortels met 'n unieke stel borde wat ontwerp is om te lyk soos brood wat in hul tradisionele gereg bedien word Pa Amb Tomata. Uitsluitlik ontwerp vir die restaurant deur Andreu Carulla ateljee, begin hierdie onkonvensionele borde as werklike snye brood wat in aluminium gegiet is.

Proe -spyskaarte het 'n steunpilaar geword by restaurante soos Thomas Keller Die Franse wassery en Grant Achatz's Alinea. Dit beteken dat sjefs altyd nuwe vaartuie soek om hul nuutste skeppings te bedien. Hierdie klein tapasborde van Ryan Fletcher is ontwerp met die oog daarop. Hulle kombineer speelsheid, kreatiwiteit en nut.

Die Mexikaanse ontwerper Jorge Trevino Blanco was besig met iets toe hy syne skep Valencia bord. Die bord is ontwerp om die genot van sushi te verbeter, en bevat 'n klein reservoir vir sojasous en 'n kompartement vir eetstokkies. Die stylvolle groen tint en verhoogde hoogte laat die bord letterlik bo die res staan. Dit is 'n revolusionêre ontwerp wat nog in die ontwikkelingsfase is, maar die sushi -spel beslis sal verander.

Die ontwerp van groot eetgerei kan ook deur die kliënte self beïnvloed word. Dit is wat gebeur het by die Dishroom Restaurant in Londen, 'n kafee in Bombay-styl met borde gedruk met voedselverhale en persoonlike herinneringe aan hul beskermhere. Dit is 'n unieke idee wat lig werp op die emosionele bande wat mense met kos het. Dit is beslis 'n neiging wat die moeite werd is om te ondersoek.

Hierdie plate is 'n goeie voorbeeld van kuns wat die lewe naboots. Die borde is ontwerp deur Nao Tamura en lyk soos piesangblare, die tradisionele opdienbak in baie dele van Suidoos -Asië. Die plate is gemaak van silikoon en is buigsaam, in die mikrogolfoond en kan skottelgoedwasser wees. Hulle kan toegedraai en met tou vasgemaak word vir 'n heerlike voorstelling.

Gebore uit die nederige idee om ontbyt te verbeter, los hierdie magiese bord een van die grootste pannekoekdilemas ter wêreld op: nooit genoeg stroop nie. Die pannekoekbord, wat ontwerp is deur Jon Wye, wat in Washington gevestig is, het 'n klein kantel waarmee die stroop aan die een kant kan swem. Op hierdie manier kan u elke pannekoek onderdompel. Nie meer klewerige vingers nie!

Wat dink jy van ons eetgerei -keuses? Luister in die kommentaar hieronder!


Deel Alle deelopsies vir: Kom vir die proe -spyskaart, kom terug vir die kroeg

Die kroeg by Momofuku Ko Louise Palmberg vir Eater NY

Die kroeg in Eleven Madison Park neurie op 'n Woensdagaand terwyl die son agter die wolkekrabbers van laer Manhattan verdwyn en pendelaars oor Madisonlaan op pad na die metro pyl. Die agt kroegstoele is almal bewoon, net soos die meeste van die lae tafels.

Die sitkamer voel soos 'n gedempte praatjie, bedek met grys en taupes, 'n plek waar jy 'n cocktail-nerd-vriend kan bring om drankies te maak met 'n minimum van vyf bestanddele elk. Kelners word agter die kroeg ingerig met ligte en maak elke skemerkelkie met verskillende spritz -bottels en flessies. Die koskieslys is kripties modern, met beskrywings van een woord soos 'sesam', 'groen ertjie' en 'wortel'. Die eetkamer, uit die oog van drinkers wat aan die kroeg sit, word beskou as een van die beste restaurante ter wêreld, maar dit is amper irrelevant, baie van die kliënte hier is nie van plan om vanaand daarheen te kom nie.

Die kroeg van 'n lekker restaurant word dikwels beskou as die ruimte waar diners tyd voor die hoofgeleentheid deurbring. Op 'n besige nag kan dit 'n oorspoelplek hê, of 'n troos vir 'n volbespreekte ete. Maar dit verander. Deesdae se sjefs en restaurante herbesin oor die doel van kroeë in hul proe-restaurante, en gebruik die geleentheid om 'n heeltemal aparte ervaring vir gaste te bied. In die proses herdefinieer hulle die rol van die kroeg in lekker eet - wat dit op sigself 'n bestemming maak.

Die idee is nie juis dat nuwe ambisieuse restaurateurs al lank na hul kroeë omsien nie. Miskien is die voorbeeld hiervan die restaurateur en die gasvryheidspionier Danny Meyer se Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan en die markgedrewe taverne. Die oop kombuis en ernstige diens van die taverne wat in 1994 geopen is, het dit 'n noodsaaklike plek vir die buurt gemaak.

Jim Meehan, beroemde kroegman agter PDT en skrywer van Meehan se barmanhandleiding, het twee en 'n half jaar lank die kroeg by Gramercy Tavern gewerk. 'Histories was daar goeie kroeë by hotelle, of u wag op u tafel,' sê hy. Hy wys op Delmonico's, wat in 1837 geopen is as die eerste lekker restaurant in die land, en die afgesonderde kroegkamer daar, wat 'n meer informele atmosfeer het, as 'n voorbeeld van hoe hierdie ruimtes vroeër gesien is. "Kokke wat cocktail bars voor en in die middel plaas, is dat hulle kroeë omhels as nie net 'n wagkamer vir gaste nie, maar 'n deel van die eetervaring," sê Meehan.

Die lojalis in Chicago. Galdones Fotografie

'Nie almal wil uitgaan en 'n proe -spyskaart hê nie, en niemand verstaan ​​dit meer as ek nie,' sê die sjef Chris Bleidorn in San Francisco. Hy het sy gretig verwagte proe-spyskaartrestaurant Birdsong in Mei in San Francisco geopen en is tans besig om te beraam wat hy met die kelderkroeg moet doen. 'Ek het al 15 jaar [proe -spyskaarte] gedoen, en daar is 'n ander einde van die spektrum waar u net iets wil hê wat deur sjefs omgee. Vir hierdie doel gaan hy meer gemaklik af: dink aan 'n gewilde wynbar wat rustieke hele vleissnitte en natuurlike wyne per glas bedien. 'Ek wou 'n ruimte hê om saam met my vrou te gaan eet en 'n steak -maaltyd te eet,' sê hy.

In Chicago het die sjefs John Shields en Karen Urie Shields in 2016 Smyth and the Loyalist oopgemaak, twee verskillende konsepte wat bo-op mekaar gehuisves is-die jaar waarin hierdie soort restaurantplase met dubbeldiens begin het. 'Oorspronklik was ons van plan om 'n eksklusiewe restaurant te doen, en ons wou iets byvoeg wat 'n bietjie meer toevallig was, want dit is hoe ons is', onthou John Shields. 'Maar toe ons die ruimte instap, het dit homself bepaal.' En so het die lojalis 'n kroeg geword.

Bo bedien Smyth vyf-, agt- of 12-gang proe-spyskaarte wat die span twee Michelin-sterre besorg het. Benede bedien die Loyalist nederiger geregte, soos hoendervlerkies en mossels linguine, saam met speelse opsies soos 'n foie gras eclair. Die doel van die Shields om twee verskillende konsepte te hê, was nie om elke moontlike eetplek tevrede te stel nie, maar eerder om een ​​plek te skep wat aan meer behoeftes in die omgewing voldoen. 'Soms is dit net lekker om 'n buurtrestaurant te hê waar u kan in- en uitkom - dit hoef nie 'n groot geleentheid te wees nie,' sê Karen Urie Shields.

Die koppeling van kroegruimtes wat as losstaande restaurante funksioneer, is ook 'n manier om die grens tussen 'bar' en 'restaurant' en wat ons ervaar as ons na albei gaan, te vervaag. By Momofuku Ko in die East Village van Manhattan is die kroeg en eetkamer langs mekaar, met een ingang, maar 'n gedeelde skeidsmuur.

Ko se kroeg, wat in Februarie vir groot fanfare oopgemaak is, staan ​​voor 'n klein kombuis wat bestellings vir die kroeg hanteer. Besoekers sal dit moeilik vind om bewyse te vind van die proe-spyskaart wat aan die ander kant van die muur gebeur-buiten die voorkoms van kenmerkende geregte, soos die eendpastei met baie Instagrammat wat vroeër op die proe-spyskaart was. Die handgeskrewe spyskaart verander daagliks en bevat gewoonlik geregte uit die proe -spyskaart wat herontwerp is of geregte wat eksperimente is aan die ander kant van die muur. "Die kos in die kroegruimte is soos 'n toetsweergawe vir Ko, en ons kan met tegnieke en idees speel," sê sjef Sean Gray. 'Daar is 'n verskil in atmosfeer, so die kos pas by mekaar.'

Die Ko -kroeg bied ook 'n meer volledige ervaring aan kliënte wat na die proe -spyskaart gekom het. "Voordat ons die kroeg gebou het, het ons [by die eetkamer] gevoel dat ons in die middel van 'n liedjie of 'n komposisie sou val," sê die hoofbestuurder van Ko, Su Wong Ruiz. Om dit te bekamp, ​​het die span onlangs die buiteknop na die Ko -eetkamer verwyder, sodat alle gaste deur die kroeg moes kom. Gaste word begroet en gelei deur die gang wat albei ruimtes verbind, 'n donker gang met volop musiek, voordat hulle die proe-spyskaart binnegaan en gaan sit by die sjef se toonbank. 'Nou is dit meer 'n volledige stuk, en mense wil aan die kroeg gaan sit voordat hulle aandete toe gaan,' sê sy.

Terwyl die nuwe ruimte die Ko -kroeg vierkantig in die tradisie van fyn eetkroeë plaas wat as wagkamers dien, stoot die kroeg, wat diep tegnies en verbeeldingryk is, gekombineer met die sober ontwerp, die genre vorentoe en bied 'n verenigde visie dat Eater NY -kritikus Ryan Sutton het een van die beste nuwe restaurante van die jaar in die stad aangewys.

Die kroeg by Momofuku Ko. Louise Palmberg vir Eater NY

Dit is goed om nuwe kliënte te bereik of om gaste se ervarings te verander, maar verder kan 'n florerende kroegruimte 'n groot invloed op die uiteinde van die restaurant hê. "Daar is 'n bietjie meer beheer oor 'n proe -spyskaart wat die produk betref, maar finansieel is daar meer belegging," sê Bleidorn. 'N Kroegruimte wat geregte bedien met 'n soortgelyke hoeveelheid bestanddele, kan die luukse items op meer maniere hergebruik as wat 'n proe -spyskaart kan doen.

Kroegruimtes het ook vinniger draaitye en laer pryse, wat die druk van die lekker restaurant afneem. 'Die Loyalist kan die inkomste genereer wat ons soek, en ons hoef nie soveel dekking in die lekker eetarea te kry nie,' sê Shields.

Die bestuur van twee afsonderlike bedrywighede onder een dak bied uitdagings vir die personeel. "Die meeste nagte sweef ek tussen albei ruimtes en probeer die geheelbeeld sien," sê Wong Ruiz. 'Ek moet voortdurend rondbeweeg en ek kan nie tonnelvisie op een ruimte kry nie.'

Hierdie hibriede kroeë bied ook 'n ander ervaring vir die sjefs. 'Ek dink ons ​​begin almal baie ambisieus, en miskien is dit gebaseer op ego,' sê Shields. 'As sjef word u gedryf deur lekker eet, en dan word u ouer en moet u maniere uitvind om u dollar verder te laat gaan, en u maak iets meer gemaklik oop.'

Bleidorn voel dieselfde. "As sjefs kook ons ​​voortdurend proe -spyskaarte, en sommige dae wil ek net 'n paar dinge op 'n baie goeie spyskaart kies."

Daar is net 'n paar dinge wat diners slegs by 'n kroeg kan kry - en goeie sjefs wil dit graag doen. 'Ek dink ons ​​gereelde by Gramercy het nie by die kroeg gesit nie, want hulle wou alleen gelaat word, hulle wou daar sit, omdat hulle die energie wou voel wat 'n kroeg het,' sê Meehan, wat verwag om nog meer volledig na te dink -kroeë wat in die toekoms aan lekker restaurante verbonde is. "Kokke wat dink dat hulle die ervaring van die kroeg moet afwater, mis die boot."

Korsha Wilson is 'n kosskrywer en 'n gegradueerde van die Culinary Institute of America. Sy is die stigter van A Hungry Society, 'n blog en webwerf wat daarop gemik is om die diversiteit van die voedselkultuur te vier en om 'n meer inklusiewe voedselwêreld te skep.
Redakteur:Hillary Dixler Canavan


Sjefs in Houston word kreatief met opspring-etes

6 van 16 Toe die pop-upreeks van Just August in 2010 bekendgestel word, het die sjefs piekelkoolstingels, geroosterde gis-aioli-avakado, harissa-/ pitpuree, krummels, gekonfijte sade/ rooiwynasyn, ederblom bedien as 'n peuselgereg. Mayra Beltran/personeel wys meer wys minder

7 van 16 Harissa/ pitte puree, krummel, versuikerde saadjies wat kraak/ rooiwynasyn, ederblom bedien by Just August Project, 2010. Mayra Beltran/ Personeel Toon meer Wys minder

8 van 16 Cobia, seldery gazpacho, tamatie, peperwortel bedien by Just August Project in 2010. Mayra Beltran/Personeel Wys meer Wys minder

9 van 16 Fish Course is ui, sonneblom, geposjeerde garnale, asjogurt wat as 'n peuselgereg bedien word by Just August Project op Woensdag 11 Augustus 2010 in Houston. (Mayra Beltran / Chronicle) Mayra Beltran / Staff Show More Show Less

10 van 16 sjef Randy Rucker met 'n groot Rooivis, 'n middelpunt van sy onlangse opspringdinee in die derde kus-dankseggingsbyeenkoms in Paulie's restaurant. Alison Cook Wys meer Wys minder

11 van 16 Die gewaagde, versierde kuikenblaarpersillade wat as 'n sous vir die rooivissies gebruik is by Randy Rucker se onlangse derde kus-dankseggings-aandete. Alison Cook Wys meer Wys minder

12 van 16 Seth Siegel-Gardner, Justin Yu en Terrence Galliran breek sonneblomme af wat tydens hul Just August-projek in 2010 in Houston in hul geregte gebruik is. Die geleentheid het die grondslag gelê vir nuwe restaurante en spyskaarte hier Mayra Beltran/Personeel Wys Meer Wys Minder

13 van 16 (links na regs) Justin Yu, Hannah Gutstein, Seth Siegel-Gardner, Terrence Galliran en (agter) Zack Zeidman is sjefs by Just August Project op Woensdag 11 Augustus 2010 in Houston. (Mayra Beltran / Chronicle) Mayra Beltran / Staff Show More Show Less

14 van 16 gepekelde koolstingels wat tydens die geleentheid in 2010 as 'n peuselgereg bedien is, wat help om verhoudings op te bou vir sjefs wat die voedselkultuur steeds beïnvloed. Mayra Beltran/personeel wys meer wys minder

15 van 16 (links na regs) Terrence Galliran, Justin Yu, Zack Zeidman, Seth Siegel-Gardner werk op Woensdag 11 Augustus 2010 in Houston in die kombuis by Just August Project. (Mayra Beltran / Chronicle) Mayra Beltran / Staff Show More Show Less

16 van 16 Van links: Sjefs Justin Yu, Terrence Gallivan en Seth Siegel-Gardner bring pop-up-etes terug wat oorspronklik die stad se kookkuns verander het. Dave Rossman/Freelance Wys meer Wys minder

Pop-up-etes is nie net 'n kerf op die steeds groter wordende gordel nie, dit het gegroei van 'n teenkulturele verskynsel tot 'n integrale faktor in die eetkamer van Houston.

Toe drie van die voorste sjefs in Houston verlede week aangekondig het dat hulle hul herinneringsprojek in 2010, 'Just August', 'n maand lange reeks pop -up -etes, herhaal, het die voedselgemeenskap geskeur tydens die reünie. Justin Yu van Oxheart werk weer saam met Seth Siegel-Gardner en Terrence Gallivan van The Pass & amp Provisions om gedurende die eerste week van Augustus ses meergang-etes te kook. Die geleentheid het onmiddellik die warmste kaartjie in die stad geword.

Meer as dit, dit was 'n waterskeidingsoomblik: 'n geleentheid om na te dink oor die verandering van die see in die stad se eetlandskap die afgelope vyf jaar, en die krag wat pop-ups gehad het om hierdie verandering teweeg te bring.

'Ons het iets probeer in Augustus 2010 wat 'n paar ernstige veranderinge aan die gang gesit het vir ons almal,' het Siegel-Gardner gesê.

Pop-up-eetplekke was die dapperste nuwe ding in die restaurantwêreld, 'n lewendige neiging wat veroorsaak het dat sjefs 'n nag, 'n week of 'n maand lank geïmproviseerde restaurante in geleende ruimtes oopmaak.

In hierdie alternatiewe ruimtes kon sjefs kook wat hulle wou, soos hulle wou, sonder om bekommerd te wees oor belaglike beleggers of die uiteinde. Hulle kan misluk en hoog vlieg in 'n opwindende sitting, en dan die volgende aand weer aan die vlerk.

'U het die een kans om regtig aggressief te wees tydens u kook,' sê Yu en verduidelik die kreatiewe aantrekkingskrag van pop-ups. 'As u al jare lank 'n gereg in u kop hou, en iemand dit nie verstaan ​​of daarvan hou nie, verloor u dit nie lewenslank as 'n kliënt nie. Opspringers laat u toe om uit te takel en u te stoot. "

Opspringers het vinnig 'n manier geword vir sjefs tussen werk om hul eindes bymekaar te maak, en om hul name voor die ywerige eetgoedpubliek te hou. Randy Rucker, pionier van Houston, was die 2008 Tenacity-aandete-klubreeks wat die gaping tussen die sluiting van sy Laidback Manor en sy tyd as sjef by die Rainbow Lodge oorbrug het.

Toegewydheidsgangers was 'n vurige lot en het Rucker se opvallende avant-garde-borde op sosiale media gedokumenteer, en het op hul beurt meer Houstonians bekend gestel aan die idee van lekker eksperimentele eet. Gaste het hul eie wyn gebring. Hulle het vroeg gekom en laat gebly. Hulle het vrae gevra en gekuier met die sjef. Hulle het met hul vriende gespog oor die wilder kant van die spyskaarte wat hulle gedeel het. Hulle het pop-ups cool gemaak.

Net soos die maverick Rucker self. Die formaat pas by sy kwaai improvisasietalente.

'Ek het die Tenacity -etes begin doen uit 'n behoefte om kreatief te wees,' het hy gesê. 'Dit was 'n vervelige tyd in Houston wat kos betref, en dit het my en diegene wat 'n helpende hand gegee het, 'n kans gegee om te verken, te doen wat ons wou en veral ons tyd saam te geniet. open dialoog met die gaste en die toevalligheid daarvan. "

Toe die inboorlinge van Houston, Siegel -Gardner en Yu - wat albei saam met Rucker by Laidback Manor gewerk het - in die somer van 2010 in Houston opdaag, was Tenacity die toneel. Siegel-Gardner het by 'n paar top tafels in Amerika en Europa gewerk, en hy wou vasstel of hy 'n ontvanklike tuisgehoor sou vind vir die moderne kombuis wat hy wil kook. Hy het Yu gebel om verlof te neem van sy werk by die nuutste Ubuntu in die Napa -vallei en hy het Gallivan - wat hy van Gordon Ramsay se The London geken het - genooi om by hulle aan te sluit.

Die res is die kookkunsgeskiedenis van Houston. Die drie sjefs was so aangemoedig deur hul uitverkoopte loopbaan dat hulle ernstige planne begin het om restaurante hier te open.

Yu het 'n ambisieuse seisoen begin om werk toe te gaan in 'n paar van die mees vooruitstrewende kombuise in Europa, en daarna teruggekeer om 'n pop-up reeks toevallige Asiatiese "Moneycat-brunches" bekend te stel waaroor die deelnemers nog steeds graag praat. Sy byvangs -aandete uit die Golf in 'n fotografie -ateljee in Bellaire, met vreemdhede soos blue runner crudo, was 'n belangrike stoot vir 'n plaaslike kookkunsbeweging wat toe nog begin was.

Siegel-Gardner en Gallivan het 'n rudimentêre kombuisruimte gevind en aandete gehou waar dramatiese vloeibare stikstofwolke gevlieg het. Siegel-Gardner het 'n onvergeetlike wyn-en-kaas-aandete saam met Mike Sammons van 13 Celsius en Lindsey Schechter van Houston Dairymaids gereël, verlig deur stringe patio-ligte in die pragtige binnehof van die wynkroeg.

Uiteindelik, met die hulp van beleggers wat beïndruk is tydens hul aandete in Augustus, het die sjefs hul eie restaurante geopen.

Yu's Oxheart debuteer in 2012 met kunstige groente-gesentreerde kookkuns in 'n opgeknapte klein pakhuisruimte wat inspirasie put uit Relae, 'n gunsteling restaurant van beide Yu en sy vennoot, bakker en patisserie Karen Man.

Siegel-Gardner en Gallivan het later daardie jaar 'n groter, meer glansryke projek geopen: eers die toevallige voorsiening, dan sy luukse broer, The Pass, waar die spyskaarte met meer as een gang na drie syfers met drankbyeenkomste loop.

Beide restaurante is vandag bo -aan die voedselketting in Houston en het nasionale toekennings gewen. Yu was named one of Food & Wine magazine's Best New Chefs this year, a coveted distinction. In 2013, Bon Appetit's Andrew Knowlton called The Pass the sixth best new restaurant in America, and he singled out the restaurant's Everest-sized pork crackling as "the most awe-inspiring dish" of the year. Siegel-Gardner and Gallivan were named semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef Southwest award this year. So was Yu, who was a finalist for that award last year. Both Oxheart and The Pass & Provisions have received the kind of national media coverage Houston restaurants once could only dream of, accelerating the city's profile as a serious dining destination.

Other prominent Houston chefs have raised their profiles, bridged job gaps or courted investors with pop-up events and series of their own. Among the notable examples: Justin Basye's Les Sauvages dinner series and Monica Pope's Outstanding in My Backyard series.

One of Houston's hottest young chefs of the moment, Adam Dorris - whose Pax Americana was just named by GQ's respected critic, Alan Richman, as a heady No. 5 in a list of America's best new restaurants - first made a name for himself with pop-up dinners. His series of Ghetto Dinners at Grand Prize Bar became cult events. Later, when Dorris was tapped to run the kitchen at Revival Market, his after-hours dinners there further established both the market's reputation and his own.

When it became time for Dorris to seek investors for his own place, some of the courting had already been done. His credibility as a chef was established. The Revival pop-up experience also allowed him to cycle through an elaborate style that he essentially got out of his system, moving toward the simpler presentations he favors today.

Pop-ups have had a similar energizing effect on the dining landscape in other cities. Chef Ludo Lefebvre - whose Trois Mec and next-door Petit Trois restaurants are the current toasts of L.A. - followed successful runs at L'Orangerie and Bastide with the pioneering 2007 LudoBites pop-ups. There he had the freedom to cook in a looser, more affordable style that has remained a hallmark.

Closer to home, in Austin, the Dai Due pop-up farm dinners evolved into the brick-and-mortar restaurant/butcher shop of the same name. Recently Dai Due has been hailed as a best new American restaurant by such publications as Conde Nast Traveler and GQ.

Pop-ups have become so embedded in modern dining culture that they are increasingly institutionalized. National outfits like the hipster Filipino Salo Series and New-Orleans-based Dinner Lab bring visiting chefs to pop-ups in a circuit of cities. About 350 Houstonians have shelled out $125 each to subscribe for a year to Dinner Lab's series here.

In vintage pop-up spirit, Dinner Lab's first Houston event was held in an un-airconditioned EaDo warehouse on a hot, mosquito-filled September night. Plucky Houston diners managed to enjoy themselves anyway.

On the other end of the spectrum, Houston's Treadsack restaurant group - the fast-growing company behind such ventures as Down House, D&T Icehouse and the new Johnny's Gold Brick bar - last autumn launched their Kipper Club test kitchen as a kind of semi-permanent pop-up.

In a sleekly revamped gas station in the Heights, Kipper Club has hosted two seasonal series of dinners showcasing not only Treadsack's stable of chefs, but also an interesting range of out-of-town chefs.

The glamorous space, with its big open kitchen and central table, combines with freewheeling menus and spectacular beverage pairings to make one of the most intriguing dining experiences in town.

"There are real relationships and friendships that develop through pop-ups," Greenway Coffee Co.'s David Buehrer said. "They evolve over time and lead to all sorts of change."

His pop-up debut serving coffee for Just August led to similar appearances where he connected with many of the city's best chefs. Now his Blacksmith Coffee shop on Westheimer is a major chef magnet, and Buehrer himself hosts a Sunday pop-up series, Blacksmith by Night. "It's all a big puzzle," he said of Houston's dynamic food scene, "and the pieces fit together differently because of what we all do for each other."

Just this month, Sean Carroll of the highly regarded Melange Creperie kiosk needed a boost getting to his $50,000 Kickstarter goal, which will allow him to move into a brick and mortar location. Chef Dorris wanted to help.


What does ‘fine dining’ in Dallas mean right now? Expect more sandwiches

12:08 PM on Jul 8, 2020 CDT

Tracy Miller didn’t have to-go boxes in her restaurant before all of this. She had a few of those small brown boxes for folks who didn’t finish their meals, sure, but there were no plastic tops or cartons at Deep Ellum’s Local.

The full dining experience means everything to Miller ― the way the 100-year-old wood floors sing when you walk through Elm Street’s historic Boyd Hotel where the restaurant is located. The flickering candles on each table casting shadows. The roasted nuts entangled with threads of rosemary. A quickening pulse when an order of the tasting menu lands in her hands. You just don’t slide that kind of memory into a box and send it off, she says.

She disposed of her ego in March. “Absolutely everything is changing. I am so not in denial about that. I am trying to be as forward-thinking as possible,” Miller says.

Those first two weeks, she brainstormed a new menu. Like every chef in the game right now, she had to shoulder the maddening burden of redefining what it means to be a restaurant. How in the world do you send “upscale” cuisine out the door right now? She thought about what could sit for a while in its container (and about the container itself), what foods wouldn’t wilt after a drive home, and who, exactly, would be ordering her dishes going forward.

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To find solutions, she reached back into her nostalgia files. Back in the day, her mom took her to the Mermaid Bar at Neiman Marcus, and they would always ― always ― order the chicken salad. It’s one of Miller’s most powerful food memories. Later, they’d learn how to replicate the salad from just that memory.

Right now, that chicken salad ― loaded with dashes of celery and in-house mayo ― is on the menu at Local in a sandwich for takeout. She pulled more from the files, of course. You’ll find sandwiches with scoops with pimento cheese, a patty melt, and a cheeseburger riveted with juices. A Monte Cristo joined the menu at one point. And remember the magnificent crispy fish sandwich, sparkling with lemon juice and a cave-blasting crunch, at Rosemont, her sister restaurant that closed? It’s coming back to Local, very soon, for takeout.

“You really have to do a lot of soul-searching right now,” Miller says. She rebooted with a lunch operation ― business plummeted during the protests and in recent weeks ― and now she’s back to dinner service. She’s using Alto exclusively for delivery. She’s employed online ordering for curbside pickup for the first time in her history. She’s added a trio of tiny grilled cheese sandwiches, because why not? The chef’s tasting menu is still available if you’re comfortable with dining inside. She’s not giving that up, she says.

“I never went into Local thinking of fine dining. And I still don’t think of it as fine dining,” she says. “But it’s taking on a new angle, and how do you maintain that while adding new things?”

For the newest innovation at Local, farm-to-table chicken rests in brine overnight, then is eased into a buttermilk bath. It gets plenty of salt and pepper and dry spices, and it’s deep-fried until the armor crackles under a knife. A heap of coleslaw for the top and bottom brioche bun, some herb aioli, and you’ve got a fried chicken sandwich.

Two young Dallasites launch free Uptown food delivery service to support local restaurants

Over in Oak Cliff, Salaryman’s Justin Holt has experienced a similar humbling feeling.

“The biggest part was letting go of the ego,” he says. There was some fear in his kitchen that Salaryman’s brand of hot food served out of a box would lead to scattershot negative reviews online. At the same time, they dropped from a staff of nine to a staff of two. “People were more forgiving than we gave them credit to be,” he says.

Most of Salaryman’s current menu, he says, can be executed in 15 minutes flat. One dish is a Texas A Bar N Ranch Wagyu beef patty that’s been relaxing in a jacuzzi of gravy ― simmered mushroom and chicken stock, soy, some sake, mirin and Worcestershire sauce. It’s served over rice with a side of potato salad. The gravy is dark magic, emblazoned with mushrooms. He calls it the “most forgiving” of all of his dishes. Holt ties its inspiration, in part, to Salisbury steak.

“Fine dining was driven by price point. And by experience. Now we’ve lost experience. And the price point is questionable,” he says.

Next door in Oak Cliff, David Uygur of Lucia and Macellaio restaurants carves the innards out of a house-made boule the size of an Olympic curling stone. The rustic white loaf, less bready now with a hollowed-out center, is ready to receive shards of slow-simmered pork, and each side is painted with Calabrian chile-spiked mayo.

“To get food hot, to go, requires more people,” Uygur says. “I wish I could be open. I didn’t open my restaurant because I want to make big batches of meatballs ― no offense to meatballs. I like to spend time on small plates.”

In one week of offering spaghetti and meatballs for takeout, they rolled out more of one shape of pasta than they ever have. Now, the mountains of meatballs are adapted into Godzilla sandwiches ― huge beasts with melted cheese and rapini. The smartly named “Meatball Sandwich for 4 People” is, in fact, the size of a UFO, and it’ll cost you $55. He’s also added a Wagyu beef bologna sandwich ― decked out with pickled veggies and arugula on homemade focaccia ― because Uygur isn’t compromising on the comforts anymore. You want bologna? Buckle up: His bologna sandwich is for two people, and it’s $30.

Why is he working with bologna and meatballs in mammoth batches? He’s making what he can make with the smallest staff possible. It comforts him. He hopes it comforts us.

Is it possible that the beginning of the pandemic marked the end of fine dining? Overnight, the idea of sitting down for a two-hour chef’s tasting menu sounds like a blissful luxury you’d experience in The Matrix.

Homewood, a restaurant where you’ll find beautiful porcini crudo and butter-basted skate, had a patty melt on the menu for a while. And before Teiichi Sakurai’s Tei-An reopened its dining room (with thermal imaging for temperature checks), the Arts District restaurant offered caviar with house-made soba chips and A5-grade Wagyu to go.

Bullion, the French-inspired restaurant downtown, was closed for weeks. Upon reopening, it sold cheeseburger kits for Independence Day delivery. CBD Provisions did the same, offering Lone Star beers with the dry-aged beef.

And Nick Badovinus’ Neighborhood Services and Town Hearth are now offering to-go menus, with items like tot poutine, a Wagyu cheeseburger, “London Broil” steak frites, and mac and cheese casserole.

When you take away the walls of a restaurant, how do upscale spots like Salaryman or Local or Lucia distinguish themselves from the rest? Chefs seem to be on their own to figure out what “upscale” even means anymore. Meanwhile, they are finding comfort in the classics.


The NomadCook, Chef Travis Peterson Brings The Infused Dining Series To Calgary

A few weeks back, the Extract Team set out on a THC infused adventure, one we won’t forget any time soon! In search for a new style team building experience, we drop the bar scene to combine luxurious fine dining, cannabis and good times, all under one roof with the NomadCook.

Travis Peterson is a chef with a long lived interest in cooking and a history in Oil & Gas.

In 2015 Travis was the choice of Masterchef Canada Season 3. Advancing through the top 18, he turned passion into reality, launching the Nomadcook. Travelling across North America, the Nomadcook brings a unique, high quality dining experience to households and functions alike.

The Nomad Cook’s Infused Dining Series (#infuseddiningseries) is what we were after. A THC or CBD infused 5 course meal with all the fixings of fine dining. We came in a little baked and a little nervous, and came out humbled by the experience (and really baked).

Amidst Calgary’s influx of core construction we finally found a parking spot in East Village and prepared ourselves for the first of many experiences with infused cannabis cuisine with a quick joint.

The Infused Dining Series uses a distinctive approach to hosting events. The app AirB&B opens communication with property owners, from there, the team narrows down locations ideal for the crowd and event.

So the idea is gather people for a good time, around good food, with great conversation and new faces.

A table of 8 sat awaiting us with nice silverware, warm decor and a beautiful view of the Bow River.

The unique thing about the Infused Dining Series is you have the choice of a private function or an open experience with other parties.

Extract shared a table with the team at Total Health Cannex and a few mixed martial arts athletes.

A culinary experience makes it easy to pop out of your shell and feel comfortable meeting new people. Travis uses food and dining environment to build friendships and memories with those sitting around you in an amazing way.

The dinner begins with Travis introducing the infused dining series and the motivation behind his unique approach to fine dining.

Going around the table to understand the cannabis preferences of each individual, attendants are given a scale of 1-5, 5 being a high level of CBD and THC infused into your dishes. We went with 6.

The Infused Cooking Series uses distillate as a means to add the good stuff. Travis recommends it for it’s flavorless odorless properties and believes it’s the best extract for a quality infused meal.

Each course is prepared in full view, and the presentation was immaculate.

Using distillate means the flavor profile of the food is not compromised, and you can really see Travis’ creative side shine with the culinary creations that arrived in front of us.

The cameras came out as the food starts arriving because each plate looked smelled and tasted like a culinary masterpiece. Travis managed to change my whole perspective on seafood with the creativity and care put into each of the 5 courses.

Overall the experience lasted the better part of two hours.

The time flew by as we were all having a blast all the while getting quite stoned.

The Infused Dining Series sometimes offers alcohol in the form of beer or wine, although Travis expressed the differences in alcohol free vs alcohol encouraged experiences over the years, and really vetos for an alcohol free dinner, which was a nice touch.

The Infused Dining Series is perfect for a handful of demographics and scenarios.

I would recommend this to families looking for an elevated gathering (18+ of course), a team building activity for employees that is outside of the box, couples looking to socialize, or any small – large groups looking for a completely new and unique dining experience.

Check out the NomadCook’s website, or get in touch with Travis via Facebook to set up your private, or hosted infused function.


“Don’t Call It A Cookbook”—Oxheart Co-Founder Wraps Experiences In Limited, Handmade Book

Karen Man has been called many things, including “pastry chef,” which isn’t accurate as far as she is concerned. “I feel like the term puts you in a box where you can only make sweet things,” she explained. Man prefers to be called a baker and says the training she received as such included what she needed to know for pastries. Her repertoire includes a banana cream pie and the pretzel rolls served at Oxheart, the restaurant she co-founded, that deserve to become the stuff of legend.

Now, add “author,” “designer,” “layout artist,” “illustrator” and “bookbinder” to her titles. In advance of Oxheart closing on March 15, Man has created a phenomenally limited edition book entitled The Art of Baking: Oxheart from scratch, much as she crafts her baked goods. Only 300 prints total of the approximately 130-page book will be produced, and while Man won’t rule out never making more, right now she has no intention of doing so. “If I put it out there that I’m only selling 300 copies, it would be totally unfair to everyone who purchased those to make more,” she said. Each copy will be numbered.

Oxheart co-founder and author, Karen Man. Photo by Duncan Artistry

Oxheart is closing. Its last night of service is March 15. In light of that, Man wanted to capture her journey with the critically acclaimed restaurant. “This book is a reflection of my time with Oxheart in a form that shows off the restaurant in a creative light through prose and art in different mediums,” she explained.

There are recipes in The Art of Baking (including for the aforementioned banana cream pie, as well as desserts and breads served at Oxheart), but Man considers them supporting elements to the art.

“The idea wasn’t to share recipes of Oxheart. It was really to share memories that floated in my head that I had no way of expressing and processing at the time,” said Man. “The first few years of Oxheart were busy and overwhelming sometimes. I never had time to reflect and enjoy those moments and when I finally had a chance to, the only way I had to do it justice was to put those images down on paper, canvas or use recycled ribbon—whatever my medium was—and use that color to paint this greater image of my experience at Oxheart.”

Man says that she did the vast majority of the illustrations herself, but to borrow a Beatles lyric, she also got a little help from her friends. Four were done by Marcella Arreaga, who studied at the San Francisco Art Institute and School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. (In Houston, she’s a wine professional at Public Services Wine & Whisky.) Sarah Belfort, a former Oxheart cook who challenged Man to getting the book done in the first place, contributed another and helped edit. Ceci Norman and Debora Smail contributed photography. Siobhan Battye, a London-based graphic artist, finessed the layout and contributed the vibrant, pop art cover illustration of kitchen tools. Finally, Melissa Kwan handcrafted stamps and made other contributions to the artwork.

Creating dozens of artworks, documenting recipes, printing thousands of pages and binding a book sounds like a Sisyphean task, but Man believes she’s gained a great deal from the process. “It’s been such an incredible journey. I have learned how to make a space to create and where my mindset and head needs to be so I can just let things go. To be creative, I need to retreat and not look too much to other people for inspiration. A lot of this book was just me putting something on paper, moving pieces around and seeing how they fit.”

The Art of Baking: Oxheart is described as an “art book supported by recipes,” such as the one for Man’s exemplary banana cream pie. Photo by Karen Man

The book can be pre-purchased online for $68 and includes an invitation to a private launch party at Public Services Wine & Whisky on March 5. The celebration runs from 4 to 6 p.m. and includes light bites, art installations and specialty ceramics by local craftswomen Ellen Cline and Sierra Estes.

With the restaurant closing, what’s next for Man? It might be having her own bakery. “I definitely still have a passion for baking in Houston and it will be on my timeline, otherwise it already would have been open by now,” she said. “I definitely want to spend a lot of this year on self-growth. I’m taking a yoga teaching course, not to have a career in teaching yoga, but it’s a journey I want to take for myself and use in ways to add to people’s lives. I want to do a lot of reading. I made a goal of reading 50 books this year. I’m trying to find a balance. How do I do what I love, which is baking, but how do I also go home and do what I love? What does that relationship look like? Because I spent so much of my life working so hard and building my professional skill sets, I think it’s nice to be able to take some time off to build this other skill set which allows me to appreciate the smaller things in life that every human gets to experience as well.”

Disclaimer: author is a small percentage partner in Oxheart but has no involvement with Man’s book whatsoever.


Brad Kilgore Opens the Restaurant of His (and Our) Dreams

When Ember opens in Miami this May, Kilgore will serve lasagna cooked over an open flame, smoked fried chicken, and ravioli in the form of mozzarella sticks.

Brad Kilgore will soon debut the restaurant of his dreams. It’s not his first opening it’s actually his fourth. But unlike the others, Kilgore has fantasized about this specific concept – where lasagna is roasted over an open flame, and angel food cake is grilled and served with blistered strawberry compote – for more than a decade.

The concept dates back to his days as a young cook, working on the line for chefs like Grant Achatz to Jean-Georges Vongerichten. As Kilgore advanced in his career ­– leading kitchens, opening restaurants, and piling up awards – so did his idea for what will soon become his latest venture.

“I almost jumped on a location years ago before I worked for Jean-Georges,” Kilgore says. “It’s something that’s been in my head for such a long time. I’ve known the name for years, too. I guess the best way to describe it is food I love to eat. That’s why it’s so special to me.”

Expected to open before the end of May, imagine Ember, located just below Kilgore’s Tokyo-inspired cocktail bar Kaido in the Miami Design District, as a wood-fired American bistro, where the 2016 F&W Best New Chef will flex his culinary know-how by serving unique interpretations of classic dishes. Think beignets stuffed with pimento cheese, roasted cornbread custard, smoked fried chicken, and ravioli in the form of mozzarella sticks.

𠇎mber and Kaido are incredibly different, but they complement each other,” says Kilgore. “With Ember, you have a neighborhood bistro that offers a little something for everyone. Kaido is a bit darker. There’s definitely a yin and yang going on.”

In addition to Kaido and the soon-to-open Ember, Kilgore runs two other hot Miami restaurants, Alter and Brava by Brad Kilgore. Though Ember will feature the same caliber of fine dining Kilgore devotees are familiar with, food will be served inside a space that&aposs decidedly more casual and approachable.

𠇎mber reflects my training and how I fell in love with cooking,” Kilgore says. “It’s what I grew up with, but it’s reminiscent of a classic French bistro.”

With 3,200-square-feet of indoor and outdoor dining, the Art Deco-inspired space is bright and inviting. Along with a large main dining room, there’s an intimate six-seat chef’s counter offering a more personalized experience for small groups.

𠇊lter was my first way of getting out there and really expressing myself as a chef,” Kilgore says. 𠇎mber has a lot of similarities with Alter. Ultimately, I’m trying give diners the same incredible multicourse experience in a more laid-back way. It’s like what we do at Kaido, where we serve 16 courses while blasting hip-hop music in the background.”

Inside, it will be impossible to escape the sultry aroma of smoky wood-fire cooking. The gem of Kilgore’s menu is the “Over the Embers” section, where he’ll feature familiar dishes that, traditionally, aren’t cooked over fire. Take the Fire Roasted Lasagna, where layers of ricotta pasta will be charred over embers and topped with maitake bolognese, gruyère fondue, and fresh basil. There’s also the Blistered Burrata with honeycomb and sea salt, and Roasted Cornbread Custard with bone marrow butter.

“We’re going for a balance between neighborhood bistro and steakhouse,” he says. “There are lots of great cuts coming from the Midwest. I’m really excited about cooking in a Josper oven, too, and having a chef’s counter for people to be interactive and really experience the inner workings of the kitchen.”

As for redefining the classics, look out for the Mozzarella Stick Ravioli with spicy marinara and ricotta, and Kilgore’s favorite: The Escargot Chorizo Cassoulet with chimichurri butter and smoked white bean purພ.

“You take escargot and house-ground marinated chorizo and cook them into the shell and bake them gently,” he explains. “What you traditionally have is garlic parsley butter, but seeing as we’re in Miami, we’re making it with chimichurri butter melted over the top and served in a classic escargot plate. It’s got all the elements and respect to the classic dish with our touch on it. As for the ravioli, that’s something I had growing up. It was a special meal we𠆝 eat maybe once or twice a year. At Ember, you’ll eat it like a mozzarella stick and dip it into the spicy marinara sauce.”


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